The wheel in the center of the M/V Tustumena's bridge bears testimony to the number of sailors that have steered the 296-foot vessel since it joined the Alaska Marine Highway System in 1964. Specifically, it is one of the wheel's eight spokes that stands out, its curved shape worn smooth by the many hands that have kept the ship on course over the years.

Affectionately known as the "Tusty," the ship is part of a fleet of State of Alaska-owned vessels whose role is to provide safe, reliable and efficient transportation between the state's waterfront communities. Vessels on the route in Southeast Alaska offer links to Canada and the Lower 48. The Tustumena offers an important year-round connection between Homer, at the end of the Sterling Highway, communities unconnected by roads — Seldovia, on the south side of Kachemak Bay and the Kodiak Island communities of Kodiak and Port Lions. Between April and October, the Tustumena extends its reach to Southwest Alaska, stopping at Chignik, Sand Point, King Cove and Cold Bay on the Alaska Peninsula; the community of False Pass, which links the Gulf of Alaska and the Bering Sea; Akutan; and, finally, Dutch Harbor.

In 1997, the Tustumena, along with the entire Alaska Marine Highway System, was designated an official State Scenic Byway "in recognition for the spectacular scenery, abundant wildlife, natural beauty, rich cultural heritage, and coastal history," reads a declaration posted on the ship. All 3,100 miles of the AMHS routes, including the Gulf Coast and Inside Passage, also are considered an All-American Road.

"The cornerstone of our operations" in Southwest Alaska, is how Dave Jancauskas, AMHS senior port captain, described the Tustumena.

"She operates in the harshest weather in Alaska," said Cisco Flores, AMHS engineering manager. 'We pay a lot of attention to her. The regulatory bodies are on there constantly. The naval consultants work with us out of Anchorage and the shipyard in Seward. Everybody does a really good job to support the Tustumena."

Sailing the northern reaches of the infamous Gulf of Alaska, traversing the temperamental Shelikof Strait and slipping into the southern end of the notorious Bering Sea, the Tustumena encounters some of Alaska's roughest seas. It does so with highly praised personnel.

Photo by McKibben Jackinsky Capt. Bob Crowley of Anchorage has worked aboard the M/V Tustumena since 1976

"The crews on the Tustumena are real sailors," said James Beedle, deputy commissioner of the Alaska Department of Transportation and Public Facilities. "They sail in some tough conditions and they do a great job."

Jancauskas also recognized the Tustumena's crew. "Those guys personify what it means to be a sailor," he said. "They're self-reliant and have a can–do attitude."

Having earned his sea legs on Cook Inlet landing barges, Bob Crowley of Anchorage got his first glimpse of the Tustumena while camping on the Homer Spit. He contacted someone he knew with the ferry system, asked how he could get a job on the ship, followed the advice he was given and the rest, all 34 years of it, is history.

"I didn't want to go to work for the ferry system. I wanted to go to work on the Tustumena," said Crowley, who began working on the ship in April 1976. Having worked his way up through the ranks, Crowley has been captain of the Tustumena for the past 13 years. He works a two-week-on and two-week-off schedule, alternating with John Scott Merrill of Soldotna.

For Crowley, the Tustumena offers ocean-going experience, opportunities to use his piloting skills and plenty of challenges. He also noted support given by the ferry system's shoreside administration, appreciation from the communities the ship serves and the "professionalism and competence" of the crew with whom he works.

Unlike the ferries of Southeast Alaska, use of the Tustumena is increasing. In 2009, the Tusty carried 23,614 passengers and 9,717 vehicles.

"Last year numbers were down six percent primarily due to the economy," said Danielle Adkins, AMHS marketing director. "We actually saw growth in Prince William Sound and travel between Homer and Kodiak, so that was phenomenal."

Adkins attributed the growth to several factors. For one thing, there has been increased marketing to central Alaska so landlocked residents are aware of the sea-going treasure in their backyard. She also pointed to an increase usage by those the Tustumena serves.

"We've seen a lot of growth in ridership from Homer and Seldovia, both in the last couple of years," Adkins said. "Kudos to the communities for getting out there and supporting the ferry. You asked for more service and showed support by getting out there and riding it."

Could the Tustumena be improved upon?

"When the Tusty does go away, it'll need to be replaced by a Tusty II," said Beedle. "It won't be an exact clone because we need more space on the car deck and more staterooms, but it can't get much bigger or it won't fit the small docks some of the communities have."

After more than a quarter century of service, however, a Southwest Alaska without the M/V Tustumena is hard to imagine. At this point, there is thankfully no need to try.

"Right now, as far as I know, it's running good and in good shape," said Beedle.

McKibben Jackinsky can be reached at mckibben.jackinsky.@homernews.com.